I had
the opportunity to spend a month in Finland for a study abroad program
in 2005. I chose this program primarily because it gave me the opportunity
to visit St. Petersburg for a weekend. St. Petersburg has been on
the top of my list of places I had to see before I died for many
years and it is a relatively short train ride from Helsinki. In
the month that I was in Helsinki, I grew to love it though. A compact
walkable city, it's beautiful (at least in the summer) and has quite
a bit of history. We were there in July and got rained on twice.
Pleasant summer temperatures and a sun that didn't set till about
11:00 made for a memorable trip.
One
of the most interesting things about Finland is the fact that it's
even a country at all. With a small population of just over 5 million,
it was part of Sweden until 1809 when it became an autonomous Grand
Duchy of Russia. Their declaration of independence in 1917 set of
a brief, but violent civil war. They remained largely neutral during
W.W.II but fought two wars with Russia; the Winter War of 1939-40
in which Russia regained the Karelia region of Finland, and the
Continuation War from 1941 to 1944. They actually fought along side
the Nazis during the siege of Leningrad (Russia was the far bigger
threat to their independence). As the tide turned against Germany
during W.W.II and Germany began to make preparations to take the
country, Finland signed a treaty with Russia and expelled the Nazis
from northern Finland in 1944 during the Lapland War.
Through
a combination of luck, political savvy and fierce nationalism, Finland
was able to remain autonomous (though Moscow played a significant
roll in Finish politics for many years) at a time when most countries
bordering Russia became Soviet republics. This, in spite of fighting
four brutal wars in the first thirty years of the country's existence.
Designed
by Carl Ludvig Engel and constructed over several decades in the
last half of the 19th century, Senate Square is the historic
heart of Helsinki. The square was patterned after St Petersburg
since Finland was still part of Russia at the time. The Palace of
the Council of State and the main building of Helsinki University
are located here. The square is dominated by the Lutheran Cathedral
which is located on a high point overlooking the square. Click here
to see some great panoramas of the square.Virtual
Finland is also a good source of information.
Suomenlinna
is an island fortress dating back to 1748. It was constructed while
Finland was still part of Sweden as a defense against Russia. Swedish
military architect Augustin Otüran Ehrensvärd was the
original designer. It is a classic star shaped fortress located
in picturesque surroundings. It was here that Sweden surrendered
Finland to the Russians in 1808. There are about 900 permanent residence
on the islands and today the fort is a popular picnic site accessed
by a short ferry ride from Helsinki. It became a UNESCO World Heritage
site in 1991. It's a great place to get lost for a day. Website
Founded
in 1909, Seurasaari is an open air museum dedicated to Finnish
vernacular architecture. The museum is located on an island in metro
Helsinki. It is composed of 87 structures relocated from all over
Finland, representing all the provinces. The structures are mostly
agrarian in nature but represent the extremes of socioeconomic status,
from the Karuna Church, commissioned by a wealthy land owner, to
the Niemelä tenant farm which housed what were the Finnish
equivalent of sharecroppers. Perfect for a archidork/history geek
like myself. Official
website.
While
this was a working trip - graded with a paper and full sketchbook
due at the end of the summer, it really felt like an extended vacation.
Each day we toured neighborhoods, museums, significant architecture
or different suburbs around town. We would meet for breakfast, then
hop on the bus, train or subway to our daily destination.
Towards
the end of the course, we embarked on a four day-three night road
trip that took us out of the Helsinki area. We visited some larger
cities, such as Tampere, Turku and Jyväskylä. We also
stayed at a lakeside cabin in the Punkaharju region and a little
guest farm in the middle of nowhere. Some of the highlights included:
the church at Petajavesi, St Olaf's Castle and the iron works at
Strömfors. We had the opportunity to tour many works of architecture
(many by Alvar Aalto) that are familiar to archidorks everywhere;
the church at Vouksenniska, Sunila workers village, The Paimio Sanitarium
and Säynätsalo town hall to name a few.
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