Sumiya Ryokan

The Sumiya Ryokan is a 100 year old traditional Japanese guest house. Located in central Kyoto, it has been operated by three generations of owners. Inside this unassuming exterior lies one of the most unique hotel stays that I have experienced. Ryokans are traditional Japanese guests houses dating from the Edo period (1603-1868). The Sumiya is an authentic Ryokan, dating from just after the end of that period.

These inns are were designed for short stay travelers along Japan's highways. They were small family run affairs that featured meals and communal baths. Gardens and tea rooms were also a part of the ryokan experience. The rooms themselves were wood paneled with sliding doors and tatami mats for sleeping. Leave your shoes in the lobby, you'll be wearing slippers while indoors.

Though traditional, the Sumiya does have a few modern conveniences. We couldn't get WiFi but there was web access in one of the common areas. Doors to each room are swinging and have a lock. Once inside the room, the entrace to each chamber is divided by sliding rice paper doors. Our room did have a small television and a private bath, though a communal bath is available if you want truly traditional experience. We had a low table for eating that was replaced in the evening with a futon style bed.

We did not take advantage of the dinner meal they provided, but breakfast was probably the most "Japanese" meal I had while in Japan. Fish for breakfast...this place rocks. This was a truly remarkable experience that I highly recommend. We could only afford one night's stay at the Sumiya but there are less expensive and even budget Ryokans available, especially in Kyoto and smaller cities. The service at the Sumiya however, was unbeatable.

They Sumiya has no website but a good third party site describing it can be found at Royokancollection.com. Another good site is japaneseguesthouses.com.



	Top Left: The Sumiya is a fairly nondescript building located in a dense urban neighborhood. Walking distance from a variety of activities. Top Right: At the entrance to the Sumiya are the out door shoes that employees use when they walk outside. Above: The entrance to the Sumiya. Our room had a small entry area where you could leave your slippers. As an architect, I love the way the rooms are furnished. The cabinets in the little tea nook are where the bedding was stored during the day.



	Breakfast and tea were included with the room. Yup, that's a big hunk of fish on my plate. Fish past, tiny shrimp, udon and roe were also on the menu. Left: The tiny little Japanese garden. Below: Our little table was replace by a futon style bed in the evening. The inn provided yukatas for us - a kind of Japanese pajama.


	Of course we had to pose in our yukatas. They also provided what Kara an I took to calling toe socks. Not sure what the actual nomenclature is.. Another unique feature of the hotel is the Japanese style bath. We had one in our room, which is not traditional for a Japanese bath but kind of a must for us. I've done plenty of hostels in my time and feel I no longer need that sort of "communal" experience.